Like visiting a friend

Martinborough, New Zealand is one of the only places in the world outside of Burgundy that makes Pinot Noir worth drinking. Ata Rangi is my favorite. The nose shows real terroir, a dusty, fruity, freshness and a little stinky--kind of like the sheep that cover the landscape.
Its not Burgundy and its not trying to be. The fruit is ripe. Not over ripe though. It's juicy, not over extracted and not stewed. Instead, it is a bright red, with great acidity and a long finish across the entire palate. And it's in that finish, that the minerality and slight funk (the terroir), return and finish each sip with a sense of place.

In January of 2001, Nina & I went to New Zealand for a few months of adventure and a journey through the different Kiwi wine regions. By mid-March, we hit the south end of the North Island and in Martinborough, scored a couple weeks work at Ata Rangi. We plucked leaves to let in the sun, pulled fencing staples, ran irrigation lines and all sorts of other farm labor. We were just happy to be in such a great place and be outside in the warm sun in March. So naturally, I have a bias toward this wine. Clive Patton, the owner and wine maker at Ata Rangi was fantastic to us. He went out of his way to spend time with us, talking about the growing and wine making process - over a beer or two of course. The 01 is our vintage. We sweat on those grapes-maybe that's what some of the funk is in the nose??? A sniff, a sip, takes us right back to that beautiful land on the other side of the planet.

Pork Belly Goodness

Pork belly-fresh bacon-whatever you want to call it, is probably one of the most decadent cuts of meat there is. Layers of tender meat and unctuous fat, stacked on top one another and when braised very slowly, for hours, these layers seem to join in one happy unison.

But the rich decadence of the belly was not enough for us, so we decided to wrap it in a sheet of fresh pasta with a little swiss chard, sauce it with a smokey bacon & parmesan cream and top it all with an egg yolk, which we basted with the hot cream until almost "over easy".

Pork belly "Carbonara" -it might stop your heart, but you will have a smile on your face when it does.

Happy New Years Eve

All hands were on deck for New Years Eve. We created 4 & 6 course menus for the night with multiple choices available for each course. That meant A Lot of prep work from all of the kickass crew.

We had BIG lists. We eventually got most of it checked off.

There was seared foie with a beet & red wine syrup & curried quince.

Nantucket bay scallop ceviche w/ baby fennel, tangerine & black olive puree.

We even pulled out the crispy duck neck terrine w/ raisin chutney & pickled winter vegetables

This was our white on white study.Citrus risotto w/ warm Maine crab & pink peppercorn cream.

If you weren't there you were square.

Happy 2008

Bounty of the Season

Though the local farm production has just about come to a halt, this time of year brings a few treats on its own. The cold waters to our Northeast produce some of the most decadent, delicious morsels of the year. The tiny pink sweat shrimp from Maine and the plump little perfect Nantucket bay scallops. We are getting these beauties less than 24 hours out of the water-they are so awesome that when they first arrive I just get a little soy sauce and snack for a minute-how could I not?

Pristine bay scallops, can you still see them twitching?

Pan seared with Jerusalem artichoke puree, sauteed beet greens

and a bacon mustard vinaigrette

Raw Maine Sweet Shrimp

Crispy deep fried-tossed with Urfa Bibier, Smoked Paprika & other goodness.

Squeeze the lime and eat them whole! Unbelievably great

A 31 Year Old Beauty

Nina & I had the pleasure of sharing a bottle of 76' Giscours the other night. Nina had bought it for me as a gift a few months back, and we finally had the right night to relax and enjoy it.
For a 31 year old 3rd growth, with a messed up label-looking like hell, it sure drank great. When we first opened it the nose was young, tight almost, full of leather, wet earth and ripe fruit. The palate was rich and lush, drinking beautifully, long finish of tobacco, chocolate & licorice. Over the hour or so that we drank it, the fruit softened, deepened and the finish became more focused, great minerality.

We ate Osso Bucco with baby brussels sprouts, onions, tomato & pasta. An awesome 1 pot meal.

Highlights from the past week

My fish monger Dan, in Portland Maine, sent me these beautiful wild oyster mushrooms. They were foraged just outside of Portland and were huge & meaty. They smelled like Maine also, a hint of pine and a sea water freshness. We simply roasted them whole and deglazed the pan with a little mushroom stock afterward for the sauce-a real treat.




A new addition to our pate roster is the duck neck terrine. Jamie came up w/ this one and it's great. We confit the duck necks, then pull the meat and press it w/ brandied raisins & wrap it all in the neck skin. Served with pickled beet greens, and a raisin chutney.

The charcuterie plate has been chock full lately as well. Seen here with house cured coppa, lomo, duck prosciutto, as well as our country pate, and a lamb/hog head cheese.
Perfect Maine day boat cod, served with baby fennel, fingerlings, escargot and a herb fumet.

Nina newest addition to the dessert menu. Polenta quince cake, pomegranate granita & creme fraiche with fennel pollen.

Taste of the Hudson Valley

We had a table at the taste of the Hudson Valley this past Sunday. It was at the Grandview in Poughtown this year instead of at the CIA where is has always been before.

We were paired with Chateau & Estates, and were pouring Trimbach Fredrick Emile Riesling 2000 & 2001. I love these wines! Nobody makes dry Riesling the way Trimbach does such austere minerality, bright acidity & lush mouth feel. The 2000 was drinking pretty close to perfect, the 01 was still a little tight but will no doubt be great in a year or two.

We whipped up some pates for the occasion. A classic pairing in my mind.



Country pate made from ground pork shoulder & duck liver as well as a duck & chicken liver mousse pate. Delicious and low maintenance on site.